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Saturday, 6 August 2016

Village life - Market Day

Jesus Pobre to the outsider can feel such a sleepy place. Wander through at siesta time and it's like a ghost town but lurking underneath that somnolent exterior is a vibrant and enthusiastic group of locals who really do take pride in their village. Demonstrated in large doses every Sunday at their Farmers Market.

The antique market on the first Sunday of June
Now, over three years old, the Sunday Market is a permanent fixture in what is already a fairly busy social calendar for the locals. The whole day revolves around the Riurau. For those not familiar with this sort of structure its a long stone cloister with a sloping roof. Used traditionally to dry out the grapes For the production of raisins it's also used as a cool, draughty meeting place. Very useful in the hot summer months. Coincidentally, the one in Jesus Pobre was the venue for my daughters wedding: three years ago.

Lynn and I have been visiting the market since its inception but have never really been able to enjoy a later night with the locals. We would inevitably have to drive back to a villa, so curtailing the drinking. It is now literally on our doorstep; Sundays have become a no driving day.

On a Sunday afternoon an army of workers put the market stalls together, moving tables, gazebos, lighting and bar furniture from a central location in the village. By 6pm the traders have set up their wares and the fun begins. It lasts until about midnight.

Inside the Riurau are the food and produce stalls. The Spanish being daily vegetable shoppers, this is just another reason to support the growers. Home made wines jostle for your attention with fresh fruit and veg, cheeses and charcuterie. Still warm mini-pizzas, tarts and fresh bread shout "eat me" as you walk along another section. Pride of place at one end of the structure is the bar, the social gathering place for all of the market goers.
The farmers and artisans market outside the town hall in June this year.

Flanking the Riurau are the artisan stalls. Here you can browse or buy hand made jewellery, paintings, lamps, and leather goods. Your wicker basket is woven whilst you wait, ditto your hand made ceramic tiles. Why not stock up on your fresh herbs and plants. We do, then I'm dispatched the few yards back to our house to drop them off before returning, usually to the bar!

All tastes are catered for. There is a fabulous stall selling tostadas, made in front of you as they melt the cheese onto a huge slab of bread. Next door is the Gorgos drinks company selling artisan beer. To top it all off indulge in a homemade ice cream or a freshly squeezed fruit juice - see, something for everyone.

There is a permanent children's park nearby so the little ones can be kept amused but there is also live entertainment every week. It's a great family evening out and one that almost doubles the population of the village. Ex-pats and holiday makers all flock here taking advantage of the free parking on the outskirts of the village (it's better to park there, the local police are always out in force looking to issue parking tickets!).

Every first Sunday of the month there is an antiques and flea market that begins at 9am. Refreshments are served and there is always some sort of entertainment, by 3pm however they give way to the Farmers Market.

"Eat Me!"
All this runs along smoothly in the hot summer months, by the middle of September the timings and hosting arrangements change. The Farmers Market changes from an evening affair to the morning. No problems here until the Sunday of the antique fair. On the occasion of them clashing for space in the Riurau the farmers and artisans move up into the squares around the town hall and also spill out onto the streets nearby thus the two markets taking over most of the village. It works!

The villagers should be proud of what they have achieved over the three years. They have stuck to their guns and insisted that anyone cooking or making anything should prove it's homemade.To give an example: Vicente sells his vegetables, fruit and homemade wines, I look out of my window across to his fields and see him tending his crops everyday. A bottle of red I have in my wine rack has been produced from the vines I can see from my living room - no carbon footprint there!

It's not just a market but a social phenomenon. Everyone you know in the village is there either supporting the growers and artisans, enjoying some live music or simply eating and drinking in the atmosphere.

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